Wednesday, December 16, 2009


A little late post about our trip to Naples in September 2009.  Enzo's family lives in the outskirts of Naples (Castel Vuoturno to be exact), so we have a place to stay and explore all the awesome (and mediocre) pizzerias for as long as we please.  
So, the first place we go to - Trianon.  First off, let me say what a dump that area is. You literally have to rake garbage with your feet to get through the streets.  People trying to sell all kinds of stuff and beggars left and right.  Clenching Enzo's hand as hard as I could, I felt like a survivor when we made it from our car to the restaurant.  
Naples is quite different from the rest of Italy, you see.  It's even quite different than the other cities in Southern Italy. You have to get over a little bit of a cultural shock. For me, every time I go there, it goes like this: first 5 days - "Oh God, when are we gonna leave this dump and go home"; then - "Oh, it's not so bad, I mean - these people live here, right?"; and finally "Enzo, let's move here - it's the best place in the world." 

Anyway, we're at Trianon. The place is spacious - 2 floors. The decor is pretty outdated but we're here for the food.  Enzo orders "Quattro Staggioni" and I order "Margherita" (with buffalo mozzarella, of course), which is the only thing I ever order. I'm a purist.

Pizzas are quite large, about 16 inches in diameter. Thick. Thicker than should be. I have to say, their crust is unacceptable.  Doughy and flavorless.  Too thick in the cornicione (around the edges) area. And than the toppings.  My Margherita had god toppings - creamy mozzarella, nice simple sauce, fresh basil. As should be.  But poor Enzo had to eat some grossness.  Quattro Staggioni is divided into four sections - 1. Ham. 2. Salami. 3. Mushrooms. 4. Mozzarella. The ham and mushrooms were inedible. Salami and Mozzarella portions were good. 
As in any Neapolitan pizzeria, the prices are more than reasonable.  Our bill, with 2 beers, was 13 Euros.  13 Euros for two disgusting pizzas.  Too much. 

For those of you out there who, like us, are all about perfecting the technique, we shot a video of them making pizzas.